By Andrew Fishman

Today started out at the home of the great Elvis Presley. Being a lover of music, I greatly appreciate what Elvis did for music, and seeing Graceland added to my appreciation. Seeing his grave made me more emotional than I expected it would.  People idolized Elvis in his prime, and his death was a heart breaker to many. I envisioned my favorite musicians of today (especially Dave Matthews) inevitably dying one day and our visit to Graceland helped me realize I should appreciate them more today while I can.

After Graceland, we went to Beale Street where we had free time to divide into small groups and pick our own places we wanted to go to for lunch. A bunch of us followed Billy to the amazing Rendezvous BBQ for a lunch of ribs. I am a changed man from that Memphis BBQ!

Our last stop in Memphis was at the National Civil Rights Museum which is located at the Lorraine Motel. This is the site where Dr. King was assassinated. After retracing the movement led by Dr. King over the past few days, standing inside the motel-turned-museum and looking out on to the balcony of room 306 where he was killed was very moving to say the least. Seeing his birthplace, grave site, and meeting friends of his really led me to a connection with Dr. King. I have seen pictures of the motel in US History class before but being there in person was pretty chilling. Billy told us a quote he got from an episode of “West Wing” that said “if they are shooting at you, you must be doing something right”. This quote and Dr. King’s experience told me that I need to stay true to my beliefs.

Directly after the museum we had a discussion about gentrification, which is the restoration of a run down area in a city, a process that happened when the Lorraine Motel was transformed into a museum. We then met with a woman named Jackie Smith who was the last person taken out of the Lorraine Motel when the city decided to make it into a museum. She suffered from the negative effects of the gentrification of the neighborhood. She has been sitting in front of the museum in protest for over 23 years. In her protest she has been struggling to turn the museum into a more “Dr. King-appropriate” landmark like a homeless shelter or soup kitchen. She believes that would be a better legacy to Dr. King.  While I don’t necessarily agree with her beliefs, it is always interesting to hear opposing view points.

We then drove 2 hours to Little Rock where we went to the famous Central High school. Billy told us the story of the “Little Rock 9”. Nine high school students, our age, integrated the school and faced incredible hardships. We also heard about the fights that President Eisenhower and the Governor of Arkansas had on whether this was a Federal or local issue. It was great to be sitting on the steps of the actual school and hearing this story.

We went to our hotel where we had time to swim and eat dinner. After dinner, we had a group discussion to get us ready for our first meeting of the trip tomorrow in Dallas. We discussed the issue of abortion. As many on the trip have said, it was great to be able hear our own peers thoughts on such issues as many of us don’t have friends that will get into these discussions at home. It was also interesting that we are a group of Jewish teens but have a wide range of views on this issue.

After the  discussion we went to downtown Little Rock where we had our wrap up and then actually got to see the “Little Rock”.

Today was a good transition into the next part of our journey where we will be debating various issues of today including abortion, gun control, gay rights and others.

(Click to enlarge all images.)

By Tyler Diamond

Today I awoke to a chicken biscuit and then got on the bus and took off to Tupelo, Mississppi and the birth home of Elvis Presley. He lived here until he was 13 and moved to Memphis. We got to see the shot gun shack where he was born. It was interesting to see such humble beginnings.

We had lunch and then made our way to Memphis. Our first stop was the legendary Sun Studios where Elvis, Johnny Cash and Jerry Lee Lewis were discovered and created rock and roll. The tour was awesome and I especially liked seeing the old guitars. I, and some of my friends, were actually able to play our guitars on the spot where Elvis recorded “That’s All Right Mama!”

After Sun Studios we drove to the Mississippi River and played in a park along side the river. We also saw the famous pyramid of Memphis.

Our next stop was the Rock and Soul Museum where I learned so much about the different influences throughout the evolution of rock and roll from musician to  musician. I also learned more about the influence this music had on social issues.

We then had free time to explore Beale Street. I did some shopping and also went to the Gibson Guitar Factory and was in guitar heaven. We also had some very good bbq on Beale Street!

The night ended with us going to Alfred’s Blues Club where the whole group go to dance together to the classic rock and roll and blues music that was created in Memphis. Some of us were even able to get on stage and play some songs. It was an  incredible night and a great way for the group to bond and celebrate our journey.

Here are links to videos of Etgar 36 teens making their Beale Street debut at
Alfred’s Club:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUkVINK5EW0

(Brett H, Matt G, Tyler D, Benjamin S)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3XdmHGHnCA

(Andrew F, Tyler D, Cole M)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScF5V838IOg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChSE6G7qiQo

Today’s early morning began with a light breakfast at the local Holiday Inn Express before driving off to the historic Graceland. After taking the shuttle to the mansion, we traveled throughout the seemingly infinite hallways, guided by our audio head sets. The majestic house included a variety of old fashioned designs and priceless antiques. Each room came with a new design and a story that led us closer to understanding Elvis’s life. The tour finished at Elvis’s grave, where people from all across the world leave letters, rocks, etc. to express their remorse for the deceased rock legend. Afterwards we boarded the shuttles and drove over to the Graceland gift shops, where we viewed a variety of Elvis memorabilia and bought various mementos which honored the “king of rock and roll.”

Later we drove over to Beale Street, where we split up into groups to enjoy lunch on one of the most exciting streets in the world. Each individual was given money to go and eat lunch at the restaurant of his or her choice. One group went with Billy to one of the best BBQ restaurants in the city, others went to various bars and cafes. We decided to go to Silky O’Sullivans, which offered an assortment of seafood and BBQ.

Once we were done eating, we went to visit the hotel where Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated. The outside of the hotel has been preserved, while the inside has been transformed into a museum. The museum continued into another building, which showed the viewpoint of the assassin.  After leaving the museum, we met with a woman opposing the existence of the museum. She was the last person to be evicted from the hotel before it was converted into a museum. She has been sitting outside the museum in protest for over 22 years.

	inside the Civil Rights Museum

We then took a two and a half hour drive to Little Rock, Arkansas. Once we arrived, we visited Central High School, the first school to be integrated by nine African-American students. At the school, we had a discussion about state vs. federal government, since that is how the issue of integration was fought in the 1950s. We then had a discussion on abortion and politics. Many of our new friends got very impassioned by the discussion. The talk on abortion is to prepare us for our meeting with the Pro-Life organization we will meet with tomorrow. We drove to our hotel and had dinner at the pool.

After we finished dinner, we visited downtown Arkansas and visited the rock that Little Rock is named after. We sat in a circle, reviewing the previous days and telling our favorite parts of them. After getting a preview of the upcoming day, we took pictures and then left to go to sleep.

posing with the actual "Little Rock"

From the moment I got the itinerary for the summer, I knew that the day in Mississippi and Tennessee would be one I would never forget.

After a 2.5 hour ride from Birmingham, Billy spoke into the loudspeaker on the bus and said, “Etgar 36, welcome to Tupelo, Mississippi – the birthplace of the King of Rock and Roll.” Then Elvis tunes came through the speakers. I sat singing with my friends and could barely wait any longer for the day to begin.

We arrived at Elvis’ birth home and spirits were high – especially amongst music enthusiasts such as me and my seat buddy, Sam Forman. We walked around Elvis’ birth home and sat in his white painted swing on the porch, saw his childhood church and even an old outhouse. Of course, most of us hit the gift shop to TCB (in Elvis’ honor – “take care of business”).

After lunch we were back on the road for the hour and a half ride to Memphis and the ability to add the Tennessee sticker to our window map. I fell fast asleep until Billy came on the loudspeaker and welcomed us to Memphis. He then played all types of music that was made in, or inspired by, Memphis. I must admit that lip-syncing has become my new hobby on the bus. Our first stop was at the legendary Sun Studios, where we saw such original and incredible things. I am still marveling over what I saw. Elvis’ original social security card was there! I even got to stand in the exact spot where Elvis stood to record the music that has influenced the world today. Hearing the snippets of music by the different artists reminded me of the play I saw and loved in Chicago called “The Million Dollar Quartet.” If it is possible, my appreciation for music increased as the day went on. We then had some free time to go explore Beale Street. This street seemed to me to be the essence of Memphis—live music, interesting stores, and food. I loved it and got some fun things in a few eclectic stores.

Gibson guitar factory

Our next stop was at the Smithsonian Rock and Soul Museum, where I had an unexpected surprise. Billy took me inside and introduced me to his friend and our tour guide who was originally from my hometown of Chicago and a huge Blackhawks fan, so we got to talk about hockey and celebrate their championship season.

After watching a movie about the connection between rock music and the Civil Rights movement, we explored the rooms of clothes, artifacts, and jukeboxes using MP3 players to get the history. I took great interest in the small section on the counter culture – a part of history I really enjoy.

Etgar 36 2010 Staff

Yes the day continued. I had a nice time at dinner where we ate at a place called “Hueys.” It was so different because people have been able to cover the walls with graffiti over the years, and the ceiling was covered with toothpicks that were shot up there through straws.

To end this exciting, inspiring, informative, music-filled day, we went to Alfred’s Blues Club located right on Beale Street. We danced to a live band and even some of our fellow Etgar 36 friends were able to get up on stage and sing and play guitar with the band. The night was both fun and different for me as I have never been in the South, let alone a blues club!

Etgar teens make their Beale Street debut on vocals onstage at Alfred's Blues Club	Etgar teens make their Beale Street debut on guitar onstage at Alfred's Blues Club

Upon leaving Alfreds, Beale Street had transformed into a bustling, bright space with people and motorcycles lining the curbs and music pouring out onto the streets and filling the air. I felt very special to experience the transformation and stand in such a unique place with new friends, a packed day that spoke to me so strongly, and more of a trip of a lifetime ahead of me. Tomorrow we are off to Graceland, the Civil Rights Museum, and Little Rock. Today was exactly as I hoped it would be. With love from Memphis!

Being a complete music buff, a trip to Graceland to view Elvis’ home seemed worth the prospect of an early morning wake up call. I braved countless rooms of tacky 1970s prints until seeing the trophy room, where I was astounded at the magnitude of Elvis’ success. However, I found the lack of information about his personal life disappointing as I didn’t get to know him well while visiting.

Graceland - jungle room

Graceland - trophy room

Elvis statue on Beale Street

After a quick stop on Beale Street for lunch, we headed to the Lorraine Motel which houses the National Civil Rights Museum. Being a part of the place where Dr. King was shot, where history actually happened, was an incredible experience. I especially enjoyed the “eracism” shirts in the gift shop. After visiting the monument to the trials of those who fought for Civil Rights, we spoke with Jaclyn Smith, a woman who has devoted the last 20 years to fighting the creation of the museum. She argues that Dr. King’s legacy would be better served by a community center.

discussing Abraham Joshua Heschel in front of the Civil Rights Museum

meeting with Jaclyn Smith

This debate over gentrification was continued during our 2 hour drive into Little Rock. Our first stop was the site of the Little Rock 9. They were nine kids who integrated Central High School. This is where we sat down and discussed the issue of Federalism, and then to prepare for our upcoming meetings we spoke as a group about abortion. Billy kept us on our toes by forcing us to consider the opposing side of our arguments.

at Little Rock Central High School

Afterwards we went to our hotel for some swimming and dinner. We then went downtown and had our wrap up along the river and saw the actual Little Rock. After a day filled with laughs, AP Exam results, music, debate and passion, it was good to unwind.

Today was a day of legends in the living. After making my first waffle in the morning we left the state of Alabama and went to Mississippi. When we pulled into Tupelo, Elvis’ hometown, I didn’t know what to think.  It was as if someone had chosen some shabby shack fitting every Southern stereotype, and set up a museum behind it. I even saw some kids with a big inflatable tube heading to what I assume was a watering hole. They looked like something out of the Forties with their bare feet and highwater khakis. I couldn’t believe this was the home of one of the greatest musicians of all time. None of the area around Elvis’ birth home was very inspiring. It just looked like a run down rural neighborhood. Then I realized that greatness is not an acquired trait but it has to be inherent for someone to see that landscape every day and still have an incredible vision.

outside Elvis' birth home in Tupelo

Tupelo

After lunch in Tupelo, we headed to a musical mecca, Memphis. Our first stop was the rock and roll monument, Sun Studios. I stood where so many achieved greatness. We learned from the tour guide the legacy of Sam Phillips, the founder of Sun Records, as well as his prodigies: Elvis, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis, etc.

on a tour of Sun Studios

the microphone used by Elvis

in the recording studio

After reading and learning about the cultural history of the area, we got to experience it as we headed to Beale Street for our free time. The sights and smells were great but it seems that, like everything in Memphis, it is the sound that drives the city. The Blues music that wafted out of every run down restaurant with flashy signs that seemed twice as valuable as the actual building, told the story of the area and people that struck a chord (no pun intended) in a blues lover like me. If eyes are the windows to the soul, I feel that music is the highway to the heart. I have never been able to understand the pure emotion I get from listening to music, especially live, but it is always exhilarating to feel that emotion coursing through me like electricity. I felt that electricity walking on Beale Street.  I felt it at the Smithsonian Rock and Soul museum that we visited and I definitely felt it at night when we got to go to Alfred’s Blues Bar to listen to live rock and roll on the street that helped shape the creation of that art form.  Memphis became a place that I wont forget!

Rock and Soul Museum	dancing at a blues club on Beale Street	Nathan playing onstage
singing along with the live music

After finally opening our eyes this morning we arrived at beautiful Graceland! We got to go inside and tour almost the entire estate! Although it was very dated, it was one of my favorite places we have seen so far.

After that we went back to Beale Street for some lunch and more free time. Then it was time to go to the Lorraine Motel which houses the National Civil Rights Museum as well as the spot where Dr. King was assassinated. We learned more about the Civil Rights movement as well as the fateful events of April 4, 1968 when Dr. King was killed.

We also got to go across the street and talk with Jaclyn Smith. Ms. Smith is an incredible lady who has spent the last 20 years protesting outside the Civil Rights museum. She was the last person kicked out of the hotel when the city decided to convert it into a museum. She thinks the city should follow in Dr. King’s footsteps and make the motel into a place to help the people Dr. King was advocating for when he died. She is an amazing person and I will never forget her.

After our meeting with Ms. Smith we loaded the bus and drove to Little Rock, Arkansas. Our first stop was at Central High School where we learned about the heroic actions of the Little Rock Nine. These were nine teenagers who were the first to integrate a high school in Arkansas. We also discussed the differences between federal and state law.

After that we went to our hotel and had a pool and pizza party before heading to downtown Little Rock to look around, have our wrap up discussion and see the legendary “Little Rock”. And now… Dallas here we come!

After waking up on time, we ate a great breakfast and loaded the bus to head over to Elvis Presley’s birth home in Tupelo, Mississippi. We got to see the house he grew up in as well as visit the amazing Elvis gift shop next door.

We then all gathered at a nearby picnic bench area where Billy shared all of his incredible knowledge of Rock and Roll music and how it originated. After singing along to “Walking In Memphis” we had our delicious Subway sandwich lunches. Twenty minutes later, we were on our way to Sun Studios where we got a fascinating tour of the studio. We learned about all of the musical legends affiliated with the studio such as Elvis, Johnny Cash and Jerry Lee Lewis and the history of the studio. We even got to stand and take pictures in the exact spot that many famous musicians recorded their hit songs.

We then went to Beale Street and got free time to explore and shop. After this we went to the Smithsonian Rock and Soul Museum where we learned even more about how rock and roll was created and its place in the Civil Rights struggle.

After that we walked to Huey’s where we ate an extraordinary Memphis dinner. To end the musical day we went to a park off of Beale Street where we were able to dance the night away to a live Blues band. We all had a great time!

Singing along with “Mustang Sally”

We woke up at 8:15 AM and were all surprised to see the Oscar Mayer Weinermobile outside our hotel. It was funny to hear everyone sing their song.

Our first stop was Graceland, the mansion where Elvis lived when he became famous. We got our headphones and started our guided tour. Now I have been to mansions like the Biltmore in Asheville, NC, but Graceland was the coolest of them all. It had the most unique rooms, including a jungle room, a meditation garden and a billiards room. I learned a lot about the King of Rock and Roll in the last few days. First of all, I did not know he was born in a tiny shotgun shack and died in a multi-acre mansion. I also had no idea the impact he had on the Civil Rights era and was a good and moral person. I grew up learning that Elvis was just a successful musician who died of a drug overdose. Well, I was proven wrong! I had no idea that he gave large sums of money to charity, read a lot and was his own producer. I have a newfound respect for Elvis Presley after seeing Graceland.

We then went to the Mississippi River, where we were able to just see it in all its majesty.

After spending a few minutes at the river we went to the Lorraine Motel/National Civil Rights Museum. Before going in Billy, had us read some quotes from Rabbi Abraham Joshua Heschel who was one of the main Rabbis involved in the Civil Rights struggle. He marched with Dr. King in Selma, Alabama. My personal favorite quote was “in a free society, some are guilty but all are responsible.” The museum itself gave a detailed history of the Civil Rights movement and of the assassination of Dr. King.

Outside the museum, Ezra spoke to us about the issue of gentrification and we debated it’s pros and cons. This prepared us to meet with Jacqueline Smith, a woman who has set up a booth outside the Civil Rights museum in order to protest the museum. Her argument is that Dr. King would have rather had the city spend all the money they used to build the museum and gentrify the area on the people that were displaced by this. She has been out there protesting every day for 20 years. Afterwards, on the bus, Billy asked us if we agreed with her. Our bus was split about 50/50 but we all respected the fact that she was so committed to the cause. I agreed with her because I think if the museum was dedicated to Dr. King it should be more in line with the work he was trying to do.

We then took a two hour ride to Little Rock, Arkansas. Our first stop was at Central High School which was one of the main schools that began the integration movement. We had a discussion on the tension in America about state vs. local government. I learned so many things that I have never known about our government. Joel’s discussion on this topic really made me think. It was great how we were sitting at the high school where such historical events happened and that was at the center of state vs. federal law arguments.

Once we got to the hotel we went swimming and had dinner poolside. Turns out I ate food from the same restaurant in two different states….very cool!

We ended our day in downtown Little Rock. We had our daily wrap up sitting in a park overlooking the Arkansas River. From their comments, everyone mentioned that they loved the Memphis culture. After wrap up, we finally saw the reason for the city’s namesake. To our surprise, it was named after a little rock! To tell the truth, it was one of the most unimpressive things I have ever seen. Overall, day 5 was a blast!

Today we started by leaving Birmingham and traveling to Tupelo… the birth home of Elvis Presley. We walked around his shotgun shack house and read about his elementary school years. Billy also led a discussion with us on the history of rock and roll and the importance of this music in bringing the black and white cultures together.

We then continued up the road to Memphis. We began at Sun Studios, where such legends as Elvis, Johnny Cash, Jerry Lee Lewis and BB King got their starts and created rock and roll.

We then had some free time to explore Beale Street, the city’s main entertainment district. This was followed by a visit to the Smithsonian Rock and Soul Museum which explained the significance of Rock and Roll to our culture.

After dinner we finished the night at Rum Boogie Café where we heard a legendary live Blues band and had a great time dancing the night away to the music we had been studying all day.